The Hungarian Pastry Shop

The Hungarian Pastry Shop: 1030 Amsterdam Ave, NYC

My dear, busy boyfriend is working today (not just on a Sunday, but on a Sunday that is also Halloween!), so I ventured out on my own again. I got paid on Friday, so I thought I'd hit up an ATM and return to the Hungarian Pastry Shop, where my lack of cash prevented me from buying breakfast on my Thursday morning walk. I'm told the Hungarian Pastry Shop is a local institution. It certainly was packed when I wandered in this afternoon, so full of escapees from nearby Columbia University that I wasn't sure I'd find a seat. Stickers on the door told me the shop is Zagat rated and recommended by City Rover and Let's Go!, so my expectations were high as I placed my order for a slice of carrot cake and a small coffee. The service is the kind of brusque I expect in NYC (is that just a Midwestern prejudice?): the woman behind the counter seems mildly irritated by my attempts to pay and motions me to have a seat in the small, crowded room. Apparently, they will bring me both my food and my check.

The atmosphere is the kind I look for in a coffee shop. It's dim and funky, with walls covered in random posters and mis-matched art, big plants in the windows, and vintage light fixtures over the tables. Now that I've found a table, I like the crowd. It's amusing to eavesdrop on the studying undergrads and the constant, loud hum forms a protective barrier – I could sit here all day and no one would bother me. There's no wireless available – it's always a downside when you can't work in a cafe – but this would be a pleasant place to hang out or a good place to suggest you and your secret crush go for coffee.

When my carrot cake arrives, however, I'm underwhelmed. I come from a family of exceedingly talented cooks and bakers (is this a gift or a curse?), so it's hard to impress me with food. The carrot cake is nice, but I'm not blown away – I'd rather have my aunt's carrot cake any day. I feel slightly guilty that I didn't order the shop's “specialty” - I didn't even ask what it is – and maybe it isn't fair to judge the Hungarian Pastry Shop against a beloved family recipe. Still, my current impression is that the pastries here are a step above standard coffee shop fare, but nothing to write home about. Though it is nice to see Eastern European specialties like sacher torte on the menu.

My carrot cake may be so-so and my coffee only fine, but it's still a pleasure to sit here, listen to the two girls beside me studying Bourdieu, and write this review. Given that there aren't many independent coffee shops in the near vicinity, I would probably come back, but not before I had explored what else the neighborhood has to offer.

Food: Average

Atmosphere: Dim, cosy, crowded

Price: Inexpensive (coffee and carrot cake for $6)

Bottom line: Go if you like crowded, funky coffee shops - the food isn't the draw

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Beauty On The Move: Skin Care Products

A facial brush from the Body Shop - keeping
me radiant on my trip to visit my boyfriend in New York

Finding a way to fit your beauty regimen into a suitcase - both literally and figuratively - can be a real challenge. All travelers want to avoid overpacking, but at the same time, many of us have a carefully-developed set of procedures and products that keep us looking sexy... and no one wants to leave their sexy behind!

So when it comes to packing your bag, it's important to know how to travel light and still look fabulous.  It's a tall order, but there are tips - and products - that can help.

One of my best skin care tips is to leave the face scrub at home. It's heavy, you may run out of it, and it's one more liquid that you'll have to fit inside a quart-sized bag when you go through check in. Also, most face scrubs come in flip-top tubes that may accidentally flip open in your bag - no one wants to arrive at their destination to find gritty paste all over their travel essentials.

Instead of face scrub, bring a facial exfoliator. My two favorites are a facial buffer and a facial brush, both available inexpensively at the Body Shop. You only need one or the other, and either one will be lighter, smaller, and last longer than a tube of face scrub. I took both on my recent trip to Europe to test them out, and had great results with both. I found the facial buffer to be slightly easier to use - the facial brush tends to flick drops of face wash around and is best used in the shower - but the facial brush gave a slightly deeper exfoliation. If you're concerned about choosing the right one, buy both and test them out before you go - both together will still cost you under $10.

Traveling is great, but no one wants to look like they're traveling. We all long for the casual elegance of the International Person of Mystery - that enviable traveler who can fit everything they need for two weeks in a carry-on and still look chic and put together. To achieve this, you can either log tens of thousands of frequent-flyer miles... or take the advice of someone who has.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Taking A Look Around

The Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine 

While my boyfriend was off at work, I thought I would take the opportunity to do some exploring. My boyfriend lives in Morningside Heights (I had to find that out from Wikipedia) and I know absolutely nothing about neighborhoods in New York, so I thought my best bet would be to google "things to do in Morningside Heights." Also, tomorrow is payday, which means I'm down to my last $11 - "things to do" had better be "cheap things to do."

My google search struck gold: "32 Things To Do If You Visit Our Neighborhood." It looked like visiting St. John the Divine was a must-do - and probably not expensive - so I decided to start my journey there. An added bonus was the fact that I had always wanted to see St. John the Divine, though I had no idea it was in Morningside until today. St. John the Divine was the church where one of my favorite American authors, Madeleine L'Engle, was a parishioner, and I had always wondered about the place where a woman of such creativity and talent chose to pray.

Detail of the Military Window in the Nave

St. John the Divine is a stunning cathedral. It's huge, and the columns seem to stretch endlessly upward into the dimly-lit vaults. The stained-glass windows are richly-colored and depict an almost bewildering array of themes, from sports to missionaries. The intricate Gothic woodwork in the nave is beautiful, and the contemporary art displayed alongside it makes an interesting counterpoint: currently there are pieces by Enrique Martinez Celaya and Mary Buckley Parriott. My favorite work of art was the Peace Altar by George Nakashima, displayed at the entrance to the nave.

My enjoyment of the cathedral was enhanced by the gorgeous harmonies of the choir. I had wandered in while they were practicing, a stroke of luck that was like stumbling into a free concert.

In his left hand, a sword. In his right... a giraffe?

After half an hour, I wandered back out of the cathedral and decided to find breakfast. The well-known Hungarian Pastry Shop is just down a block and across the street from St. John the Divine, and I went in and ordered a cheese danish before finding out that they only accept cash. I couldn't find an ATM that would let me withdraw just 10 of my remaining 11 dollars, so I walked over to Broadway and found a Westside Market, which took debit cards. Westside Markets are full of delicious prepared foods of all kinds as well as groceries, and they had a nice selection of pastries, too. I left with a cheese-covered focaccia and a bottle of organic blood orange juice.

I walked back to the park at St. John the Divine and ate my breakfast under a bizarre sculpture of an angel with a sword cuddling giraffes. "32 Things To Do" tells me this sculpture is called "The Fountain of Life" and dubs it the ugliest piece of public art in the neighborhood. Ugliest? Well, I'm not from around here so I can't be sure, but it certainly is odd. No matter - not even weird art could spoil a picnic breakfast on an unseasonably warm day in New York City.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Naked Without My Passport

Usually when I get on a plane, I'm going to Europe. I have to show my passport at three or four airports before I make it to my destination. When I finally get to my hotel, I have to show my passport there, too – most European hotels won't let you check in without one. Even walking around a European city, I need my passport. Internet cafes always require one, and sometimes just sending a fax means showing a passport. If I realize I left my hotel without my passport, my first reaction is I panic.

Which is why I now feel naked without my passport. I keep reminding myself that, as a US citizen, I can travel domestically with just my driver's license, but it doesn't help. Every few seconds I catch my breath and think “Oh my god! I forgot my passport!” Then I have to breathe deeply and remind myself that I did not forget my passport, I left it at home on purpose because I don't need it.

Even now as I sit at my gate - well past security and check in – I periodically feel that something is amiss. I think for a second, trying to figure out what's causing my feeling of unease, and then it hits me – I'm still concerned about that stupid passport.

What really worries me, though, is the following scenario: I accidentally leave my carry-on with its precious cargo of shoes under the bench at my gate. I walk onto the plane with just my tote bag over my shoulder and my trench coat over my arm. I put my trench in the overhead bin and my tote under the seat in front of me. Suddenly, I think: aren't I supposed to have something else?

Of course not. This flight is domestic. For the last time – I don't need my passport!

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

A Little Jaunt to the Big Apple... on Spirit Airlines

Struggling to pack chic, but light

I haven't mentioned anything about my relationship status in a while. It was very much on my mind when I started the blog, because at the time I was struggling to put a relationship together. Then it was on my mind in Paris, where I spent two weeks alone in spite of having invited my boyfriend to join me in the most romantic city in the world. I'm happy to say, though, that things have been going well since I've been back in the states, and tomorrow morning I head off to spend a week with him in New York.

Which gives me an opportunity to write a little about in-country travel. Getting over the oceans is really my thing, but there are lots of great places you can go without leaving the USA, and New York is surely one of the greatest. Don't expect too much of me - I am going to visit my boyfriend after all and blogging isn't going to be my priority - but I promise to fill you in on the highlights.

But for today, how am I getting to New York? I'm flying Spirit Airlines. If you don't already know about Spirit, it's a great way to get around major US hubs on the cheap. Most of the airports Spirit flies to are located in the eastern half of the United States, and flights to Florida, the Bahamas, Puerto Rico, Jamaica, and Mexico make it great for vacations. Flights to New York, Washington DC, Boston, Chicago, and Los Angeles make it great for work, too.

Spirit gets high marks for being affordable. You choose each segment of your flight separately and can see when the cheapest flights are available - if your travel plans are a bit flexible, this can really save you money. Spirit's flights are generally fairly inexpensive, but they're even cheaper if you join Spirit's 9 Dollar Fare Club. For $40 a year, you have access to rock-bottom prices. To put it in perspective, I joined the 9 Dollar Fare Club AND booked my roundtrip flight to New York for less than a major airline would have charged me for the ticket alone.

The downside, of course, is luggage. Spirit is particularly restrictive, even for a budget airline. You may only take a personal item without paying, something like a small tote. Bringing even a standard-sized carry-on will cost you an extra $20. Even so, including the charge for my carry-on and my membership in the 9 Dollar Fare Club, my flight cost me under $200. And now that most major airlines have begun to charge for the first checked bag on a domestic flight, I would have limited myself to just a carry-on even if I had paid major airline prices.

Although Spirit may not fly everywhere you want to go, the low prices make it worth checking out. And who knows - maybe some of the sunny destinations will inspire you to take a mid-winter break!

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Sixbeds Hostel, Rome, Italy

All the bits of paper are thank you notes

Really great budget accommodation is hard to find. Generally, you have to give something up. Maybe it's convenience or cleanliness or service, but chances are if you're spending less than 60 euros, you won't have a remarkably pleasant stay.

That's what makes Sixbeds Hostel in Rome an absolute stand-out in budget accommodations. Sixbeds has it all: it's clean and comfortable, it's located close to the train station and directly next to a major subway stop, and it provides important amenities like bed linens, towels, and in-room safes. It also provides the little extras like a book corner where you can pick up a book for the road or leave one you're finished with.

Most importantly, Sixbeds provides the big extra, which is fantastic service. Recognized by Hostel Bookers for the excellence of its service, Sixbeds goes out of its way to help you make the most of your time in Rome. When I arrived, even though I was only in town for one night, Max - Sixbeds' gregarious owner - sat me down with a complimentary map of the city and showed me how to get to all of Rome's famous monuments. He asked me what I had seen before and told me about new places I'd never been. Then he provided me with the train schedule for the following morning so I would be sure to get to the airport on time. I couldn't believe how helpful and welcoming Max was.

The book nook at Sixbeds

When I left Sixbeds, I left Max a thank you note. His walls are already full of them, but I hope mine is now up there, too. Being welcomed in a foreign city makes all the difference in the world to a tired traveler. I speak Italian and have spent over a year living in Italy, and I was still grateful for Max's help. If you're heading to Rome for the first time, I can't emphasize enough that you should stay at Sixbeds.

Size: Small (one single, one double, one triple)
Rates: Budget (a single room cost 40 euros a night)
Bathroom: Shared
Breakfast: Included
Cleanliness: High
Convenience: High
Languages spoken: English, Italian
Service: Outstanding!!!!
Overall rating: 10

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

The Best of the Bazaar: Carthusia Perfumes

Traveling overseas has enriched my life in a lot of ways. It got me to finally learn a second language, taught me that I really do like seafood if it was pulled from the Mediterranean the same day I eat it, and gave me a sense of capability and independence that comes to my rescue on a daily basis. Shallow though it may be, however, one of my favorite benefits of traveling is what it's done for my style.

I grew up in a small town in the Midwest, which means for the first eighteen years of my life I was unaware of anything more fashionable than a GAP sweater. My first trip to Europe was like walking into a fine arts museum for the first time. All at once I realized that the world contained more kinds of beauty than I had ever imagined, and just as immediately, I wanted to be a part of it.

Fortunately for me, the vastness of the global bazaar means that even a penniless writer can find great style on a modest budget. And to bring these great finds to light, I'm starting a new series of blog posts: "The Best of the Bazaar."

My first great find for The Best of the Bazaar is Carthusia perfumes. Carthusia is a tiny company that makes exquisite perfumes using flowers and herbs indigenous to the island of Capri. The medieval formulas for these perfumes were discovered in a Carthusian monastery in 1948, and the perfumes are still being made in limited batches that allow the preservation of the ancient production techniques. Women's perfumes contain essence of Capri wild carnation, while men's fragrances contain essence of rosemary from Monte Solarno.

In addition to being a unique expression of Capri's terroir, Carthusia perfumes are intoxicating. My favorite is Ligea La Sirena, a sensual, sweet, musky fragrance based around scents of mandarin and wild white rose. The fragrance wears beautifully and is long-lasting, so an application in the morning will keep you smelling lovely until the end of the work day. I wore my Ligea constantly while traveling - perhaps you can tell by the fact that I left a sweaty finger print on my bottle's label.

Carthusia perfumes are affordable as well as elegant. A 0.85 ounce bottle - which will last for ages due to the perfume's potency - is only 13 euros if you opt for the version without the built-in atomizer. Carthusia can be purchased online, but is more fun purchased while wandering down the sun-drenched streets of Capri (Via Federico Serena and Via Caremelle), Sorrento (Corso Italia), or Positano (Via della Tartana).

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

A Piece of Pisa

I promised I would fill you in on what I did while I was AWOL, so here's my first installment. I spent a few weeks in Florence during my mysterious absence (not so much mysterious as lazy, but I'm trying to spin it in my favor). More on Florence itself later, but you know what makes a fabulous and easy day trip from Florence? Pisa.

You can get to Pisa (Pisa) from Florence (Firenze) by spending an hour on a train departing from Santa Maria Novella, the main train station in Florence. Direct trains depart every half hour, but watch out - there are also regional trains that stop at every single station on the way. A regional train will still get you to Pisa, but it will take an hour and a half instead of an hour.

Pisa is a beautiful, quiet city with pedestrian streets full of shops and cafes, so it's worth spending a day just looking around. If you're dead set on getting to the famous tower, however, walk straight out of the train station and just keep walking. You'll soon find yourself facing the river Arno. Cross the river and then, if you're adventuresome, head off into the charming streets and bear slightly left - you'll stumble into the tower before you know it. If you feel like playing it safe, turn left after you cross the river and follow it until you see Via Roma on your right. Via Roma will take you directly to the Piazza del Duomo, the location of Pisa's beautiful cathedral, baptistry, and of course the Leaning Tower.

All of the monuments in the Piazza del Duomo can be visited, but access to the tower itself is a little tricky. If you want to go up in the tower it's a very good idea to book a ticket online before you go. This will allow you to avoid lines as well as ensure that you get a spot on one of the tours. Entrance to the tower is possible only with a guided tour and tours tend to sell out during the summer.

Other Pisa attractions not to miss include the beautiful Gothic cathedral Santa Maria della Spina on the banks of the Arno and the Museo delle Navi Antiche di Pisa, which houses a variety of Roman artifacts and more than ten fantastically preserved ancient ships that were discovered by accident in 1998.  And, of course, if you can't get enough of medieval art, you should check out the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Back On The Wagon

Detail of a work of art in Square Roland Dorgeles, Paris

Good grief! (And thanks, Mr. Brown, for the use of your catchphrase.) I confess I was better at this blogging thing back when I received a per-post wage. Clearly I am not ready to quit my day job and become a full-time writer. I had a decent excuse for not posting up until September 17, when AT&T finally got around to connecting my internet (over a week later than they promised), but beginning September 18 the fault became totally my own.

But enough with the self-flagellation and on with the show!

I want to pick back up by suggesting that everyone read Robert Pippin's excellent post in yesterday's New York Times Opinionator, "In Defense of Naive Reading." Why am I directing readers of a travel blog to an opinion piece about literary criticism? Because of this statement: "Literature and the arts.... invite or invoke, at a kind of “first level,” an aesthetic experience that is by its nature resistant to restatement in more formalized, theoretical or generalizing language."

Right on, Mr. Pippin.

That statement pretty much sums up both what is amazing about travel and why it is so hard to write about. Travel is an aesthetic experiences. Like literature and art, travel is transformative. A good "naive reader" of the travel experience takes in details at a level that precedes worded thought. We walk through our new surroundings the way we read a great novel or see a great work of art. We are impressed by things we don't realize we noticed. We feel connections and relationships that we can't articulate. A new place is so rich, so complex, that it may take a long time and a lot of processing before we can put together an explanation of why it changed us, but change us we know it did.

The tree with the anonymous installation

How many of us have been frustrated by questions like "what was France like?" Reducing my trip to Paris to a formula of what makes France French isn't just impossible, it's ridiculous. Travel is resistant to "generalizing language." We try to pin down what was so amazing so our families and friends can share in our experience, but in the end we are often reduced to a bewildered "you had to be there."

So in order to translate the art of travel into a blog post, the blog post must become art. And maybe that's why I've been avoiding my writerly duty for a full two weeks. I can write a certain number of posts about budget airlines and good hostels, but there will come a point when I have to reduce a new place to its barest shapes and colors, and I worry that I'm no Matisse.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding