Favorite Places: The Bastione San Remy, Cagliari

On top of the Bastione San Remy

A recent thread on Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree asked: "Sardinia where to go?" It got me thinking about the fact that I haven't written much about Sardinia yet, even though it's one of my favorite destinations and I find frequent excuses to return to it. I don't know what I love most about Sardinia. Maybe it's the historic but lively cities. Maybe it's the vast empty landscape dotted with ancient ruins... and flocks of sheep. Or maybe it's the exquisite culture of food and wine that ranges from Michelin Star-winning restaurants to delicious home cooking to the utterly bizarre (care for some snails baked in salt? calf thyroids? cheese with worms?).

Heading to the top of the  Bastione

So I decided it was time to write about Sardinia and at least begin introducing readers to one of my Favorite Places. My favorite city in Sardinia is the island's capital, Cagliari, and one of my favorite spots in Cagliari is the beautiful Bastione San Remy. The Bastione is an 18th century fortification built on top of Cagliari's old medieval wall system, originally constructed 400 years earlier. Now the Bastione serves as a beautiful look-out point from which to admire Cagliari's colorful rooftops, winding streets, and blue harbor. If you head up the Bastione's broad double stairs from Piazza Costituzione, you'll find yourself in a grand piazza. All around you stretch gorgeous views: to the south is the sea with its harbor full of cruise ships, to northwest is Cagliari's lagoon with its complement of pale pink flamingoes, and to the north, up yet more flights of stairs, rises the castello itself, Cagliari's old fortified city where you'll find one of its great cathedrals as well as its archaeological museum.

Enjoying the sun

There are plenty of benches on the Bastione if you want to sit in the sun and admire the palm trees, and there are cafes at the edges of the piazza if you need a refreshing cappuccino after climbing the stairs. If you visit the Bastione on a weekend in the summer you're likely to find an artisan market selling jewelry, sculpture, and hand-made t-shirts. And if you're looking for nightlife, the Bastione is a great stop. At night its cafes fill up with Cagliari's glitterati and occasional events like Argentine tango in the piazza keep things lively.

Napoleon's cannonballs

A final amusing note about the Bastione should appeal to history buffs. When you visit the Bastione, take a good look at the pink building you can see in the background in the picture above. The careful observer will spot three cannonballs still embedded in the wall - a small souvenir of the Napoleonic Wars.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Taking A Look Around

The Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine 

While my boyfriend was off at work, I thought I would take the opportunity to do some exploring. My boyfriend lives in Morningside Heights (I had to find that out from Wikipedia) and I know absolutely nothing about neighborhoods in New York, so I thought my best bet would be to google "things to do in Morningside Heights." Also, tomorrow is payday, which means I'm down to my last $11 - "things to do" had better be "cheap things to do."

My google search struck gold: "32 Things To Do If You Visit Our Neighborhood." It looked like visiting St. John the Divine was a must-do - and probably not expensive - so I decided to start my journey there. An added bonus was the fact that I had always wanted to see St. John the Divine, though I had no idea it was in Morningside until today. St. John the Divine was the church where one of my favorite American authors, Madeleine L'Engle, was a parishioner, and I had always wondered about the place where a woman of such creativity and talent chose to pray.

Detail of the Military Window in the Nave

St. John the Divine is a stunning cathedral. It's huge, and the columns seem to stretch endlessly upward into the dimly-lit vaults. The stained-glass windows are richly-colored and depict an almost bewildering array of themes, from sports to missionaries. The intricate Gothic woodwork in the nave is beautiful, and the contemporary art displayed alongside it makes an interesting counterpoint: currently there are pieces by Enrique Martinez Celaya and Mary Buckley Parriott. My favorite work of art was the Peace Altar by George Nakashima, displayed at the entrance to the nave.

My enjoyment of the cathedral was enhanced by the gorgeous harmonies of the choir. I had wandered in while they were practicing, a stroke of luck that was like stumbling into a free concert.

In his left hand, a sword. In his right... a giraffe?

After half an hour, I wandered back out of the cathedral and decided to find breakfast. The well-known Hungarian Pastry Shop is just down a block and across the street from St. John the Divine, and I went in and ordered a cheese danish before finding out that they only accept cash. I couldn't find an ATM that would let me withdraw just 10 of my remaining 11 dollars, so I walked over to Broadway and found a Westside Market, which took debit cards. Westside Markets are full of delicious prepared foods of all kinds as well as groceries, and they had a nice selection of pastries, too. I left with a cheese-covered focaccia and a bottle of organic blood orange juice.

I walked back to the park at St. John the Divine and ate my breakfast under a bizarre sculpture of an angel with a sword cuddling giraffes. "32 Things To Do" tells me this sculpture is called "The Fountain of Life" and dubs it the ugliest piece of public art in the neighborhood. Ugliest? Well, I'm not from around here so I can't be sure, but it certainly is odd. No matter - not even weird art could spoil a picnic breakfast on an unseasonably warm day in New York City.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

A Piece of Pisa

I promised I would fill you in on what I did while I was AWOL, so here's my first installment. I spent a few weeks in Florence during my mysterious absence (not so much mysterious as lazy, but I'm trying to spin it in my favor). More on Florence itself later, but you know what makes a fabulous and easy day trip from Florence? Pisa.

You can get to Pisa (Pisa) from Florence (Firenze) by spending an hour on a train departing from Santa Maria Novella, the main train station in Florence. Direct trains depart every half hour, but watch out - there are also regional trains that stop at every single station on the way. A regional train will still get you to Pisa, but it will take an hour and a half instead of an hour.

Pisa is a beautiful, quiet city with pedestrian streets full of shops and cafes, so it's worth spending a day just looking around. If you're dead set on getting to the famous tower, however, walk straight out of the train station and just keep walking. You'll soon find yourself facing the river Arno. Cross the river and then, if you're adventuresome, head off into the charming streets and bear slightly left - you'll stumble into the tower before you know it. If you feel like playing it safe, turn left after you cross the river and follow it until you see Via Roma on your right. Via Roma will take you directly to the Piazza del Duomo, the location of Pisa's beautiful cathedral, baptistry, and of course the Leaning Tower.

All of the monuments in the Piazza del Duomo can be visited, but access to the tower itself is a little tricky. If you want to go up in the tower it's a very good idea to book a ticket online before you go. This will allow you to avoid lines as well as ensure that you get a spot on one of the tours. Entrance to the tower is possible only with a guided tour and tours tend to sell out during the summer.

Other Pisa attractions not to miss include the beautiful Gothic cathedral Santa Maria della Spina on the banks of the Arno and the Museo delle Navi Antiche di Pisa, which houses a variety of Roman artifacts and more than ten fantastically preserved ancient ships that were discovered by accident in 1998.  And, of course, if you can't get enough of medieval art, you should check out the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo.

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Sacre Coeur

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding