Pozzuoli: A Day Trip from Naples with Lots to Offer

Underneath the Roman amphitheater in Pozzuoli

If your travels through Italy take you to Naples, you should consider taking a day trip to Pozzuoli. Pozzuoli is practically a suburb of Naples and you can get there in half an hour by taking a metro train from Garibaldi Station. Not only is it easy and cheap to get to Pozzuoli, this gritty but charming harbor town has something for everyone.

One of my favorite attractions is the Roman amphitheater. You can wander around the entire structure, including the underground chambers where the beasts and gladiators were kept. Numerous signs provide detailed explanations of how the amphitheater worked and you won't have to fight crowds, stand in lines, or pay the hefty entrance fee that you will to see the Colosseum (there is an entrance fee at Pozzuoli, but it's reasonable). If you go in the summer, the underground chambers make a refreshing break from the South Italian sun and the grounds surrounding the amphitheater are littered with sculptures and architectural carvings - just don't go looking for the museum that the signs mention: they never built it.

The ancient Roman marketplace when the water table is low

Another great Pozzuoli ruin is the ancient Roman marketplace, also called the Serapeum, located near the harbor. This was once the heart of the Roman city of Puteoli, an important commercial center, and today it gives an interesting insight into the volcanic geology of Campania, the region of Italy around Naples. The marketplace is seriously affected by bradyseism, the rise and fall of the earth due to volcanic activity. Sometimes the bottom of the market is dry and visible, as in the photo above. At other times, as on my last visit, the entire market floor is covered with several feet of water, complete with pond weeds and hopping frogs.

A sulfurous steam vent at Solfatara

If ancient ruins don't interest you, try hiking up the road for more volcanic activity. The crater of the dormant Solfatara volcano provides a strange lunar landscape complete with pits of boiling mud, vents of steam, yellow and orange sulfur crystals growing on the rocks, and a constant smell of fireworks. At one end of the vast crater is a seriously toasty medieval sauna, not for the faint of heart. The ground is also quite hot, so be careful if you're wearing sandals or flip-flops.

Of course, no day trip would be complete without great food. Try stopping at 'A Scarpetta, a traditional Napolitano restaurant located at Via S. Paolo 15 (you'll find it if you face the main harbor, then follow the waterside road to your left). 'A Scarpetta makes fabulous seafood dishes. For a genuine culinary delight, order the antipasti di mare. Just be warned - you might not have room for dinner afterward!


Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

Mill Korean Restaurant

Mill Korean Restaurant, 2895 Broadway, New York

As I wander around New York, I'm loving the abundance of good food to be had conveniently and inexpensively. For example, I love the “green carts” that sell fresh produce to passers-by on the street. Why don't we have these in Michigan, where the greenest food you can get from a street vendor is a hotdog with extra pickle relish?

I also love the restaurants here in New York. I haven't exactly been checking out the haute cuisine, but I have seen an abundance of small restaurants offering tasty-looking dishes for less than I would pay back home. Today I decided to check out a Korean place on Broadway near my boyfriend's apartment. Mill Korean Restaurant packs about 15 tables into a cosy interior with a few more tables out on the sidewalk (New Yorkers seem determined to dine al fresco until there's actually snow falling on them). The ethnic wooden decor and the old newspaper clippings on the wall give the restaurant a lived-in, comfortable feel that made it the perfect place to spend a cold afternoon. Lunch started with dishes of delicious cold appetizers, then moved onto miso broth, then to our entrees: beef bibim bap for my boyfriend and stir-fried rice noodles for me.

The food was spicy and memorably good, the green tea was nutty and complex, and the price was fantastic: everything together came to under $20, including my 20% tip. My curious nature generally leads me to try a new place whenever possible, but Mill Korean Restaurant is going on my list of restaurants to return to.

Food: Very good Korean food
Atmosphere: Cosy
Price: Inexpensive ($7-$8 for lunch)
Bottom Line: A great lunch spot on a cold day

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding

The Hungarian Pastry Shop

The Hungarian Pastry Shop: 1030 Amsterdam Ave, NYC

My dear, busy boyfriend is working today (not just on a Sunday, but on a Sunday that is also Halloween!), so I ventured out on my own again. I got paid on Friday, so I thought I'd hit up an ATM and return to the Hungarian Pastry Shop, where my lack of cash prevented me from buying breakfast on my Thursday morning walk. I'm told the Hungarian Pastry Shop is a local institution. It certainly was packed when I wandered in this afternoon, so full of escapees from nearby Columbia University that I wasn't sure I'd find a seat. Stickers on the door told me the shop is Zagat rated and recommended by City Rover and Let's Go!, so my expectations were high as I placed my order for a slice of carrot cake and a small coffee. The service is the kind of brusque I expect in NYC (is that just a Midwestern prejudice?): the woman behind the counter seems mildly irritated by my attempts to pay and motions me to have a seat in the small, crowded room. Apparently, they will bring me both my food and my check.

The atmosphere is the kind I look for in a coffee shop. It's dim and funky, with walls covered in random posters and mis-matched art, big plants in the windows, and vintage light fixtures over the tables. Now that I've found a table, I like the crowd. It's amusing to eavesdrop on the studying undergrads and the constant, loud hum forms a protective barrier – I could sit here all day and no one would bother me. There's no wireless available – it's always a downside when you can't work in a cafe – but this would be a pleasant place to hang out or a good place to suggest you and your secret crush go for coffee.

When my carrot cake arrives, however, I'm underwhelmed. I come from a family of exceedingly talented cooks and bakers (is this a gift or a curse?), so it's hard to impress me with food. The carrot cake is nice, but I'm not blown away – I'd rather have my aunt's carrot cake any day. I feel slightly guilty that I didn't order the shop's “specialty” - I didn't even ask what it is – and maybe it isn't fair to judge the Hungarian Pastry Shop against a beloved family recipe. Still, my current impression is that the pastries here are a step above standard coffee shop fare, but nothing to write home about. Though it is nice to see Eastern European specialties like sacher torte on the menu.

My carrot cake may be so-so and my coffee only fine, but it's still a pleasure to sit here, listen to the two girls beside me studying Bourdieu, and write this review. Given that there aren't many independent coffee shops in the near vicinity, I would probably come back, but not before I had explored what else the neighborhood has to offer.

Food: Average

Atmosphere: Dim, cosy, crowded

Price: Inexpensive (coffee and carrot cake for $6)

Bottom line: Go if you like crowded, funky coffee shops - the food isn't the draw

Copyright 2010 Sara Harding